June 27, 2008

The Mark of the Maker - Kansas City is about to get a kick in the glass

The pride of Loretto, Ky., Maker’s Mark has made a name for itself as one of America’s highest-quality bourbon whiskeys.  The unique taste of Maker’s Mark came as a result of trial and error on the part of Samuels’ father, Bill Samuels Sr., with help from his friends.  When your friends are Jack Daniels and Jim Beam, you turn out a pretty damn good glass of bourbon.  After a series of trials using specific blends of grains in the form of baked bread, they hit on the perfect combination.  Maker’s Mark’s signature smoothness and sweetness is owed to a combination of wheat in the mash and 100-year-old cypress barrels.

The smoothness of the interior of the new Maker’s Mark Bourbon House and Lounge in the Kansas City Power & Light District is also a result of Samuels Jr., in conjunction with Reed Cordish of the Cordish Group.  Kansas City is only the second location of the lounge on the country, behind Louisville, Ky., which is only fitting.  So at this late stage in his career, Samuels finds himself starting new ventures.  “It wasn’t supposed to be this way.  I was supposed to coast off into the sunset and land on the steps of the nursing home,” he says.

Instead of diversifying or trying to distribute globally, the Samuels family wanted to focus on the quality that they already had.  “Why don’t we do what we know how to do and let more of the world enjoy it?” Samuels asks.  “None of us have ever really had big egos about us; we know what our weaknesses are.  We don’t have the money or strength to take on these large companies.  It’s probably better that we don’t.  It keeps us grounded and dedicated to the craft.”

Stepping into the new Maker’s Mark lounge, one is surprised-although they shouldn’t be-by the refined angles and smooth blonde wood that abounds.  This is not the place to go to drink cheap whiskey and listen to country music.  This isn’t the infield at the Kentucky Derby.  This is the ticketed seats.  This is exactly the image that Samuels wanted to propagate. “I would never win any prizes as a tough business negotiator, but I knew that when I met Reed [Cordish] and his daddy and his brother that we could work together because there was a level of trust.  They had a vision, and we wanted the same thing,” he says.

One of the things that they wanted was integration between drink and food.  While the bar glimmers with every bourbon that a connoisseur could ever dream of, this is also the place one would go to have a nice meal.  General Manager Larry Plaisance ensures this.  His pedigree suits Maker’s Mark to a T.  Born and raised in New Orleans, he sounds like the Samuels’ southern cousin.  After time as a chef at Ruth’s Chris Steak House and the Brio chain of restaurants, he found Maker’s Mark.  The pairing is working well.  His enthusiasm for the concept is palpable, not only for the bourbon aspect, but in regards to his commitment to fine dining.  “I want people to walk in and say, ‘Wow, that was hospitality,’” he says.

“When you come in here, we want you to know you’re going to get a fine-dining experience in a relaxed atmosphere with a great lounge,” Plaisance says.  “It’s a dining experience first and foremost.”  Looking at the menu, it’s clear that this is not pub food.  Fourteen-day dried aged beef is the crowing glory on a menu chock full of interesting options, from calamari to pork chops to bourbon-themed appetizers.

In addition to the dining room and lounge, the restaurant features bourbon lockers for purchase.  The locker owners have access to special offers each month.  Bourbon is by no means the only focus of the drink menu.  With a traditionally masculine drink such as bourbon, there is some reticence from the ladies to imbibe.  To combat this, Maker’s Mark also has wine carts with a large array of options in wine and cocktails to cater to the ladies right at the table.  “Bourbon is traditionally a manly drink; it’s a heavy glass; it’s boom, right there.  But behind every good man is a good woman, so we made sure that we have something for everyone,” Plaisance says.

Everyone involved in the new lounge has an air on camaraderie, which is most likely born of Samuels’ long history of such a business philosophy.  “Now remember, my godfather was Jim Beam.  The guy that mentored through law school was Jack Daniel’s nephew.  I grew up being mentored and taught by competitors,” Samuels says.  “I want this to be a place where all the other bourbon distillers feel comfortable coming in and talking about their bourbon.  It’s about respect.  Plain and simple.”  Just like the taste in the glass.

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